We decided to go on a trip north to Mozambique and check out Gorongosa National Park, Beira, and further north, Ilha de Moçambique. The north of Mozambique is beautiful and exotic. At least that’s how I remember it from when we first visited there in 2005.

This part of Mozambique has beautiful and interesting sights. But the roads in this part of the country are very bad and our car is now an elderly man, so we decided to travel by local transport. Getting up at the crack of dawn we left in the very early hours from Vilanculos for Beira. The road after crossing the Save river is absolutely dreadful. I don’t think I have ever seen such big potholes in my life. But with a front seat in the chapa (local minibus) it wasn’t too bad, the driver drove carefully and once we reached Inchope, a beautiful new highway built by the Chinese, loomed before us. This road connects Beira to land-locked Zimbabwe as Beira has an important port. From here it’s only another 2 hours drive to Beira.

Beira is Mozambique’s second largest city after Maputo, with a lot of Portuguese influences. In terms of tourism perhaps not the most interesting city, but it has a relaxed atmosphere, friendly people, lots of nice restaurants and fine middle-class hotels. I really liked Beira. It has an international airport with direct flights from Johannesburg and is a good base for a night or two, before visiting Gorongosa National Park which is about a 5 hour drive from there. Our local chapela (tuk tuk) driver turned out to speak excellent English, we found a great guide! Fransisco was also really nice guy and we had intense discussions about Mozambican politics.

He took us around the city in his chapela, exploring the city, visiting hotels and enjoying the good seafood here. He showed us the fishing port with the old fishing vessels, the old town, the train station with a daily connection to Zimbabwe and the impressive cathedral of Beira. We saw the former Grand Hotel, an institution during the colonial time but now a dilapidated slum. Hotel Estoril is a nice mid-range hotel which offers a comfortable stay at a reasonable price. Hotel Tivoli, a sister hotel of the one in Maputo is another good choice here, located in downtown Beira with a colonial feel, old wooden floors and a good restaurant. We stayed in a private house from a lovely couple who run a sustainable forest for Mozambican hardwood in the Gorongosa area called Levas Flor. Nothing is coincidental and I was getting excited about Gorongosa!

Off in an early chapa again as we continued our journey to Gorongosa National Park. Though they promised us to go to the park’s  turnoff, the driver dropped us off back in Inchope from where we had to find another chapa to the entrance of the park. From here, it’s another 30 km on a dirt road to the park entrance. After hours crammed into overcrowded minibuses, the pickup by comfortable private safari jeep was a real treat and the road to the park entrance magnificent – a taste of what was to come. I had no idea what to expect and had brought our own tent – lodging in Gorongosa does come at a price. But we were received with all honors, were offered a safari tent with nice beds in the main camp and invited to do as many safaris as we could fit in.

We met Vasco, the passionate PR Director of the park, who had wanted to go to Gorongosa even as a little boy when he watched a promotional film about it. He actually showed us the film – complete with VW vans used as safari jeeps back in the sixties! With great love and passion, Vasco told us all about the history of Gorongosa, its decline during the civil war in Mozambique, the restoration afterwards and the numerous community-, research, scientific and innovative projects happening there.

It’s an understatement to say it was inspiring to see what has been achieved here in twenty years. I was completely overwhelmed. After the ecosystem had been restored, wildlife returned, and now the area is bursting with animals. There are professional and cheerful guides, beautiful accommodations and camps, breathtaking colors, and there is peace, silence and just pure beauty.

We visited some of the amazing projects in the park like the Saving Pangolins project and I saw a Pangolin for the first time in my life. What a sweet and beautiful animal, but sadly the most trafficked mammal on Earth. We sat by the campfire at night gazing at thousands of stars in the main base camp, Chitengo Camp. Montebelo Gorongosa Lodge in the main camp offers nice and clean double rooms at an affordable price and the restaurant has a very varied menu. We slept like a baby with the sounds of the bush. On one of the safaris, just for a brief moment, I felt that I had reached a feeling of complete oneness with nature, which made me very emotional.

I was deeply impressed and this is for me absolutely one of the highlights in Mozambique.