Beautiful Vilanculos (Vilankulo) – gateway to the idyllic Bazaruto Archipelago

“Oh do you live in Vilanculos? I would LOVE to visit there- so stunning, so beautiful!” said the 90-year-old mother of a Dutch friend I met here in Mozambique, who visits her son every year. “I once saw a picture of that magnificent bay in a brochure and had never seen anything so wonderful.” It is true, I replied, in the pictures it looks beautiful and it truly is beautiful.

Vilanculos – a formerly quiet fishing town, now one of Mozambique’s tourist hotspots. Officially Vilankulo, named after the local chief Gamela Vilankulo Mukoke, a well-known family name in this area.

Vilanculos is best known as the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago, which was granted protected area status back in 1971, making it the first and oldest marine national park in Mozambique- because of its exceptionally beautiful underwater world. Whale sharks, manta rays, thousands of fish species, whales, dolphins, nesting sea turtles and the last remaining viable population of dugongs set in tranquil, turquoise seas, surrounded by powder-white beaches made the Archipelago a highly desirable and  top tourist attraction in southern Africa.

The archipelago is a diver’s and snorkeler’s paradise and watching the humpback whales in season a fantastic experience.

On the island of the archipelago you will find exclusive lodging, ranging from the more family-friendly and larger Anantara Resort to the luxurious &Beyond Benguerra and even more luxurious and exclusive  Kisawa Sanctuary, for top class service and exclusivity.

In 2023, Zenguelemo Lodge opened, a luxury eco glamping in partnership with the local community, providing a unique opportunity to stay in the middle of the archipelago at an affordable price.

 Below the helicopters flying over, transporting guests from the small international airport in Vilanculos to the luxury lodges on the islands, life in Vilanculos continues unruffled and unchanged, as it has for centuries. At the end of the day, the dhows (traditional Arab sailing vessel with one or more masts) come sailing into Vilanculos bay with their catch of the day or night; where the women await them to sell the fresh fis in the evening market.

This is a special sight you don’t see in so many places in the world anymore. I keep finding it, ever since we have been here, extraordinary and special how this authentic local life mixes with the (still small-scale) tourism. Tourists (or ourselves) enjoying a cold beer in the beach bar with in front of it on the beach the fishermen busily and precisely repairing their nets and the fishermen are only too happy if you buy a fresh fish or lobster from them.

The local Mozambicans remain friendly as ever and are always as happy and cheerful. At low tide in the afternoon the beach is bustling with activity with youngsters playing soccer with the few materials they have.

In recent years Vilanculos has experienced considerable growth, new roads have been built (we ourselves still live on a dirt road) and in record time almost the entire town was provided with electricity (with all its advantages and disadvantages because Mozambicans love loud music.

Many accommodations were added, from backpackers and mid-range lodges to luxury 5 star hotels like the beautiful Santorini hotel. So in terms of accommodation choice there is something on offer for everyone’s style and budget, though on average prices are a lot higher than in South Africa, for example. This is mainly due to the small scale nature of the industry, the fact that in Mozambique almost everything is imported with 100% import tariffs, and seasonality.

Vilanculos is also a lot further north from the capital Maputo than, say, Tofo (about 11 hours on a fairly poor highway) resulting in higher transport prices and far fewer (self-drive) travelers than in southern Mozambique and places like Ponto d’Ouro, Bilene and Tofo.